VISITING BOTSWANA (Travel tips/Quick Check list). SHORT LIST OF REQUIREMENTS AND ALSO SOME THINGS TO REMEMBER

 

Following a visit to the northern part of Botswana (Victoria Falls (Zambia) & Caprivi, Chobe), herewith a brief list of important things to remember!

You need the following:

1. Passports for all adults and children alike. Passports must not expire within 6 months of the visit and must have at least one blank page for every country you will visit. South African passport holders do not need visas for tourism.

· Vehicle and trailer documents: Firstly, a photocopy of your vehicle registration certificate (RC1) (also for trailers). Many South African banks take in vehicle registration documents when financing vehicles—just call them for a faxed copy of your registration certificate (it takes about three days). Secondly, if you are not the owner of the vehicles or trailer, a faxed letter from the bank or owner (with ID) authorising the cross border of the vehicle. This letter together with a faxed copy of the RC1 registration certificate were accepted in Botswana, Namibia and Zambia. Remember to make a plain paper copy of any thermal fax paper versions. If your vehicle is not under finance you must still bring its registration document(s) with. Same applies to rental cars.

· Check your vehicle license expiry date – renew it beforehand if it is going to expire during your trip!

· Letter from your vehicle insurance company confirming by letter (fax) that your vehicle is insured and for which countries. This will typically cover all Southern African countries excluding Zambia, Tanzania and Angola (you will have to get special insurance for your vehicle when visiting those countries).

· South African card-type drivers’ licenses are accepted — no need to get international drivers licenses for Botswana, Zambia and Namibia at least!

· All South African registered vehicles (including trailers) must have a “ZA” sticker on the back.

· Two red warning triangles (with red reflectors) inside your vehicle (especially for Zambia/Namibia). Apparently some check­points are now asking for fire extinguishers although this is likely just a sideline money scheme by some policemen (always insist on formal receipts if you hand over cash!).

· You MUST pay road levies in Botswana, Namibia, Zimbabwe and Zambia — these are obtained at border posts and cost approximately the equivalent of R120—R250 per vehicle depending on where you want to travel to (Martins Drift Jun2010 = 120 Pula, 200 Pula with trailer, Kazungula to Zambia = 200,000 kwatcha). Trailers typically cost an additional 30 to 100 Pulas. There is also sometimes a per person fee of between 35 and 60 pula. If the border officials don’t offer the road tax, ask for it, because you will have to show these documents at the road blocks you will come across (and will be fined if you don’t have it.)

· You can pay with rands at Botswana border posts (but with a steep exchange rate of 120 Pula = R200). Also remember a pen or two to write with at the border post!

· Botswana, Namibia and Zambia do not require special 3rd party insurance (as does Mozambique).

· It is important that you declare all valuables on the SARS Customs form (ask for it) when leaving SA as this form is checked upon returning. Also declare all electronic equipment, GPS’s, laptops, cameras, binoculars, fridges, etc. Use up all diesel, etc from jerry cans as these create unnecessary explanations/problems when returning to SA.

· Keep ALL receipts/documents (i.e. the SARS form) in a single file as you are required to show them at Police checkpoints and even at Border posts when returning. Officials get irritated when you don’t have them close by.

1. Most border posts have different open times during summer/winter. In winter Martin’s Drift border post is open 08:00-18:00 (summer 06:00-22:00?). Things go SLOWLY in Africa and you must in general plan for at least 1 hour to pass through any border post.

2. Check with your medical aid/insurance company that you have cover in Botswana/Namibia. Many do, but just make sure.

3. Main roads are mostly tarred and in reasonable condition (you don’t need a 4x4 to travel between major towns). Watch out for the occasional pot-hole! Zambia is a different story and you need to be careful with their many potholes. The road from Gazankulu to Livingston is however in reasonably good condition (and passes through a nature reserve). Also the road from Livingston to Katima Mililo via the new bridge.

4. Lesser roads are virtually all 4x4 (lots of sand) and I don’t think you should risk it with a 4x2 vehicle (not even with a diff-lock). Never drive remote roads alone! Some 2-spoor tracks have very high middle sections and I have noticed that Unimogs and other big 4x4’s have damaged some of these smaller roads to such an extent that low clearance, soft roader 4x4s cannot drive on them at all.

5. When driving remote and sandy roads, the time it takes to drive them is often much more critical than the actual kilometres. Some GPS maps (such as Tracks4Africa) now include this information. Check this out carefully as failing to do so can leave you stranded in the wilderness by nightfall, far from your destination.

6. Avoid driving alone in Botswana as a breakdown can be tough to deal with on isolated roads and also the long stretches of main roads. Always have basic spares and tools with you (including a spare fuel and air filter and also fan belts). Also have a good quality tow-rope with you (not a local hardware shop “nylon ski rope” or supermarket “tow-rope” (inferior quality)!

7. Driving at night in Botswana is simply very dangerous (I cannot emphasise this enough!). There are literally thousands of cattle and game roaming free with no road-side fences and hitting such an animal at night can not only be lethal, but will most certainly damage your vehicle. Good quality driving lights are essential and even then I don’t think that it can be safe driving faster than 70 km.h at night (even at this speed we missed a kudu by less than 10 metres). Near Nata we came across two pitch black elephants in the road—be careful and don’t be drawn into driving faster by the end of the day when you are tired or when getting close to your destination. Ask your passengers to be alert and to assist you with looking out for animals. Kudu for instance will often tend to jump at you from the side, across the vehicle’s lights. Better still, plan your trips to arrive at your destination before nightfall.

8. The speed limit on open roads is 120 km.h but you will often come across speed limits varying between 60 to 80 km/h when approaching villages and crossings. We have come across a few speed traps (all radar/laser based) in these lower speed zones - so be careful—you will get caught if ignoring them (even in very small villages!) and spot fines are rather hefty I understand (i.e. > R500). Insist on an official receipt.

9. Road side toilet facilities (i.e. at garages) are generally in very poor condition and most of the time simply filthy. Remember your own toilet paper (for the whole trip!) and physical hygiene protection for toilet seats.

10. When driving through Nata I recommend that you stop at Nata Lodge (appr 10 km before Nata) and rather have the courtesy of buying a cup of coffee in their restaurant just to use their clean facilities (after 200 km from Francis Town you will want to do it anyway!). We found clean toilet facilities at Martin’s Drift Petrol Station, Francistown, Nata Lodge (NOT the town itself), Maun, Kasane (look out for well known garages such as Engen, BP that appear looked-after).

11. Petrol and diesel are both less expensive in Botswana than in SA (lower taxes)—there is an excellent garage (with convenience shop) just across the Martin’s Drift border in Botswana where you can fill up for less than in SA. On this topic, diesel and petrol are sourced from South Africa and are generally available in all major towns in Botswana—one must however remember that some of these towns are more than 300km apart and it is important that you plan your routes and fuel. At least one 20 litre emergency can is strongly recommended. There are occasionally smaller filling stations in between towns, but they are likely to have low pump rates and dirty tanks—so don’t risk using them if not an emergency (we came across three Dutch intern doctors stuck with a dirty diesel problem in Zambia!). Kasane apparently also have some fuel supply problems (Zimbabweans buying fuel there).

12. You can use credit cards in bigger stores and even at some garages for petrol. It appears that Visa cards maybe more widely used than MasterCard. I hardly saw any American Express or Diners Club signs.

13. Inform your bank’s Credit Card Division of your travels prior to leaving and also ask them to authorise your Garage/Petrol Card for SADEC country fuel purchases (which can sometimes be paid with at South African supplied garages, such as Shell, BP, Engen, etc.) We often found it to be the case in Namibia, although less in Botswana. You can also at times pay with credit cards for fuel (+5% commission).  However, always have cash (Pulas/Rands) available!

14. You may want to temporally double your day limit for fuel purchases as most banks only allow one full tank’s worth per day.

15. There are nowadays surprisingly many South African convenience shops in Botswana’s bigger towns (not small ones). Shops such as Spar, Shoprite, OK, Garage Quick Shops, etc are now frequently found and were well stocked. We even got fresh veggies, milk, meat, personal hygiene stuff, etc in the larger shops (Namibian shops also sell beer!). Prices are only 10 – 25% more expensive than in SA and we could pay with credit cards in most places.

16. Note: If I knew this upfront we would have taken less tinned food, beer/cold drinks and bottled water with us and rather buy them over there as required. This would have saved precious space and weight in our vehicle (and avoid bringing lots of unused food all the way back to SA!). Plan for such purchases only in bigger towns however.

17. There are veterinary check points (road blocks) and you will often be checked for meat or fresh dairy products. This is important as Botswana is serious about protecting itself against Foot and Mouth Disease (found in Zimbabwe, etc). Do not bother to have lots of meat with you—there is a real chance of it being confiscated, especially when driving back from the north! There are even veterinary “red zones” inside Botswana and you will sometimes not even be allowed to move meat bought inside Botswana, i.e. especially from the north to the south. We did however manage to take meat from SA all the way to Vic Falls, but not back south. There are very strict controls close to the northern borders of Botswana and all our meat (even vacuum-packed) and milk/cheese were confiscated when entering Botswana from Katima Molilo (Namibia). Buying meat inside Botswana is unfortunately not that easy and we could buy meat only in bigger towns (i.e. Gabarone, Palapye, Kasane, Maun, Katima Mililo).

18. It is quite possible to drive from Johannesburg to Nata during day time (winter), but then you must leave Martin’s Drift by not later than 12:00. If you want to drive to the north (Kasane) you will need another 3 hours (at night 5 hours). As most of the 300km road between Nata and Kasane is dead straight and with many pot holes and animals—be careful that tiredness don’t overcome you! It is recommended that you don’t try to drive further than Nata.

19. The ferry between Botswana (Kazangula near Kasane) and Zambia is unreliable. Plan for delays at the ferry/border post (typically 1.5 hrs). Entering Zambia is pretty expensive (i.e. R1,000 for family of 4 with a trailer). The ferry costs appr US$20 ($25 with trailer). Also have a Plan “B” if the ferry is broken i.e. to go from Kasane to the VicFalls Bridge via Zimbabwe (you have to pay a “Carbon tax” of appr. R200.00 but in US$). The whole ferry ordeal is however worthwhile (an “expe­rience”) and the Zambian road to Livingston is also reasonably good and goes through a nature reserve (no fee). 

20. There are a limited number of good camping sites along major routes and one doesn’t have to make reservations ahead of time (although you can if you want to, especially during peak periods or if you want stay in a bungalow). We can recommend the following camp sites (which all have warm water showers): Martin’s Drift, Itumela (Palapye – about 3km off the main road), Nata Lodge, Toro Lodge (Kasane), Drotsky’s Cabins, Maramba Lodge (Livingstone, Zambia).

21. On the Trans- Kalahari Corridor road, the best overnight accommodation is just across the border in Namibia (Zelda’s Farm), but check your time carefully as you have to leave SA very early to get there before dark. Alternative is the Kang Ultra Stop Guest House chalets or the Kalahari Arms Hotel in Ghanzi (there are a number of good places in Ghanzi).

22. Bigger towns apparently have clean drinking water from taps, but I don’t think it can be relied upon to be always safe...don’t risk upset stomachs on a bush trip! Rather use bottled water (or sterilising tablets if you have to use local water). Also check with campsite owners if they have safe borehole water.

23. There are not many pharmacies in Botswana/Zambia—rather buy your medicines in South Africa. If you use prescription/­chronic medicines, rather obtain enough for your trip prior to leaving SA.

24. Make sure you have a well thought through medical emergency kit to suit your family’s particular needs (for adults and your kids alike). Kids (and some adults) are often much more adventuress than normal! Always ensure that you have something for upset stomachs (Immodium AND Rehidrate (or simialar).

25. Malaria is a problem in countries north of South Africa and it is strongly recommended to consult your doctor before leaving South Africa. We came across surprisingly many mosquitoes in the North for mid-winter—so be careful! Prevention against being bitten by mosquitoes in the ^1st place is important and you are urged to also use anti-mosquito spray (or cream lotion) which must be used generously in the morning but especially in the afternoon and evening. Also wear long trousers, closed shoes and long-sleeved shirts after dusk . We also burnt anti-insect coils/candles every evening.

26. Although it is difficult to give guidelines on how much cash you need, I would recommend at least 1,500 Pulas per week for a family of 4 (excludes accommodation and fuel). Border crossings must preferably be paid in Pulas (cash only) although Rands are accepted. Pulas can be obtained from some South African Banks. For Botswana/Namibia it is often easiest to draw cash from ATM’s in larger towns. Zambia Kwatchas cannot be bought from SA banks and you have to change money in Zambia (be careful of road side money traders—they will rip you off if you don’t know the exchange rates!). South African Rands are widely accepted in Botswana, Namibia and Zimbabwe (also a bit in Zambia although they prefer US$), but again you must check the exchange rate offered! We could pay the ferry at Kazangula to Zambia with Rands.

27. We found winter night temperatures colder than expected—remember warm clothes/jackets and extra light weight but warm blankets to put on top of sleeping bags.

28. A map-based GPS is strongly recommended (unless you only drive on main roads). I have found Tracks4Africa (for Garmin) to be the best (Garmin’s own topo Garmaps are also getting a bit better). I also prefer to use a good paper map and Tracks4Afrrica’s and InfoMaps are excellent. See: http://www.tracks4africa.com/, http://www.infomap.co.za, etc. Ask Kevin Bolton’s Warehouse, Safari 4x4, Outdoor Warehouse, etc for GPS and maps advice if you are not sure.

29. Cell phone reception in Botswana is limited to towns and larger villages only - no road side reception. (Uses the same GSM type as South Africa)

30. As there is limited cell phone reception, Google Mobile Maps are of little use as you cannot pre-load Google maps. Nokia/Blackberry Maps work if you download the Southern Africa maps prior to your departure (again files are relatively large).  Nokia Maps have a free Botswana download from their web-site but it is severely lacking detail for remote areas (rather rely on dedicated GPS’s such as Garmin, etc.) Watch out for very expensive data roaming costs if your cell phone attempts to download maps - rather avoid using your cell phone maps programme at all and disable data roaming on your phone if you must!

 Plse let me know if you have found this info usefull! Also please let me know if you want to change or add something (especially after your trip!?) 

Disclaimer: Although we try to verify information, no responsibility whatsoever can be accepted for the correctness of the information presented here. Use it at your own risk.

Christiaan Mostert  mostert@comsim.co.za